What to Do About:
Cocci
Buzzy Bunnies Says:
Contrary to popular belief, not all rabbit victims of cocci, or coccidiosis, live in squalor. It can also be brought about by stress, unbalanced microbiotics, in the gut or genetic abnormalities, to name a few things. It is relatively common in show rabbits due to the fact that they often are exposed to possible carriers and are also usually stressed. Young rabbit kits are also often victims. The symptoms include diarrhea, sudden shyness or hanging back in their cage, lethargy, weakness, very strong odor. It can be fatal extremely quickly if not treated.
Coccidia is a protozoa that affects the digestive system and liver. It is often digested from contaminated food or water or made prevalent by stress from showing, a change in food, a lack of fiber in the diet, or weaning.
Cocci can be treated with antibiotics from your vet. Be sure to ask for probiotics, as well, or your rabbit may get sick again very soon of he/she doesn't get them. Probiotics should always be given in the feed or water regardless of the means of treatment. If your vet refuses to recommend or supply a Probiotic, it's time for another vet. Antibiotics should never be given without Probiotics.
Treatment: Probiotics mixed with Pedialyte or another electrolyte drink for severe dehydration. If your rabbit is eating or drinking, add the probiotics directly to his/her food/water. Do not feed pellets until the infection is definitely gone, nor for a week afterword. If not, forcefeed probiotics mixed with Pedialyte (or other electrolyte) through an oral syringe. Feed unlimited oats and hay instead. Your rabbit will need the fiber and the oats should help them maintain their weight until they are better. Rabbits with cocci usually lose weight rapidly even with treatment. If your rabbit has a bloated stomach, he/she probably has mucoid enteritis and needs to be taken to the vet immediately. There is no home treatment for M.E.
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Recommended Treatment From: http://www.mismatch.co.uk/rabbithealth.htm:
"A microscopic, internal parasite is responsible for this common, but very serious disease of the liver. The organism is present in the faecal pellets, and so can be transmitted from one rabbit to another, and particularly from a doe to her kittens, in a dirty hutch. Symptoms of coccidiosis are a yellow, jaundiced look, persistent diarrhoea and extreme weakness. Without treatment the rabbit becomes emaciated, yet develops a pot-bellied appearance due to enlargement of the liver. Death is due to exhaustion.
It is necessary to isolate a suspected case of coccidiosis, and to seek veterinary help immediately. Drugs can effectively control the disease if it is diagnosed and treated professionally without delay."
Contrary to popular belief, not all rabbit victims of cocci, or coccidiosis, live in squalor. It can also be brought about by stress, unbalanced microbiotics, in the gut or genetic abnormalities, to name a few things. It is relatively common in show rabbits due to the fact that they often are exposed to possible carriers and are also usually stressed. Young rabbit kits are also often victims. The symptoms include diarrhea, sudden shyness or hanging back in their cage, lethargy, weakness, very strong odor. It can be fatal extremely quickly if not treated.
Coccidia is a protozoa that affects the digestive system and liver. It is often digested from contaminated food or water or made prevalent by stress from showing, a change in food, a lack of fiber in the diet, or weaning.
Cocci can be treated with antibiotics from your vet. Be sure to ask for probiotics, as well, or your rabbit may get sick again very soon of he/she doesn't get them. Probiotics should always be given in the feed or water regardless of the means of treatment. If your vet refuses to recommend or supply a Probiotic, it's time for another vet. Antibiotics should never be given without Probiotics.
Treatment: Probiotics mixed with Pedialyte or another electrolyte drink for severe dehydration. If your rabbit is eating or drinking, add the probiotics directly to his/her food/water. Do not feed pellets until the infection is definitely gone, nor for a week afterword. If not, forcefeed probiotics mixed with Pedialyte (or other electrolyte) through an oral syringe. Feed unlimited oats and hay instead. Your rabbit will need the fiber and the oats should help them maintain their weight until they are better. Rabbits with cocci usually lose weight rapidly even with treatment. If your rabbit has a bloated stomach, he/she probably has mucoid enteritis and needs to be taken to the vet immediately. There is no home treatment for M.E.
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Recommended Treatment From: http://www.mismatch.co.uk/rabbithealth.htm:
"A microscopic, internal parasite is responsible for this common, but very serious disease of the liver. The organism is present in the faecal pellets, and so can be transmitted from one rabbit to another, and particularly from a doe to her kittens, in a dirty hutch. Symptoms of coccidiosis are a yellow, jaundiced look, persistent diarrhoea and extreme weakness. Without treatment the rabbit becomes emaciated, yet develops a pot-bellied appearance due to enlargement of the liver. Death is due to exhaustion.
It is necessary to isolate a suspected case of coccidiosis, and to seek veterinary help immediately. Drugs can effectively control the disease if it is diagnosed and treated professionally without delay."
Mucoid Enteritis
Buzzy Bunnies Says:
M.E. can also affect adult rabbits, often those with weakened immune systems. It often follows antibiotics if not given with probiotics. It is usually fatal, which is why we recommend giving Probiotics every time antibiotics are given. Preferably several hours afterword, so as not to kill the Probiotics before they can help. Keep the regimen going for at least a week after the antibiotics are gone to rebuild the proper mix of intestinal flora.
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Recommended Treatment From: http://www.mismatch.co.uk/rabbithealth.htm:
"What is it? A mucus-like inflammation of the intestinal tract caused by either viral or bacterial infection, also called bloat, which affects young rabbits usually 3-10 weeks old. It is not contagious.
Symptoms - Rabbit hunched rigid in the cage sometimes with the head titled back. Loss of balance. Bloated stomach - you can sometimes hear 'sloshing' and gurling in the stomach when you pick the rabbit up. Constipation and/or small amounts of diarrhea. The diarrhea will have gel globs in droppings and mucus covered soft droppings. Gel on their bottom. No blood or green mucus in the droppings like with Coccidia. Grinding their teeth (a sign of extreme pain).
How do they get it? - here is a quote from http://www.all-creatures.com/456013.html "This condition involves disruption of the complex system responsible for fermentation of non-digestible fiber in the diet. Factors involved in enteritis complex include changes in diet, effects of antibiotics, stress, and genetic predisposition to gut dysfunction. Diets high in sugars or protein or low in fiber may cause changes in the fermentation process in the cecum, leading to changes in pH and motility, which in turn lead to enteritis. Additionally, some antibiotics that affect the normal bacteria of the hindgut (penicillin, cephalosporin, erythromycin, clindamycin, and lincomycin) allow overgrowth of bacteria found in the intestinal tract, which can cause enteritis." It can be from overcrowding or overstressing which causes constipation and a distruption in the fermentation process of fiber in the gut. Stress can also be caused by change in temperature, by bullying by other rabbits, showing, traveling, change in food.
Treatment -
For this disease there is as yet no recognized control. It is painful and slow and they do not usually recover. You should consider putting the baby 'down' if you have this. If you want to try and keep them alive even though they are in pain...replace their water with pedialyte for hydration and give them plenty of carrots, green leaf lettuce/spinach and bananas/apples/papaya, pinneaple juice, yogurt. Basically anything they will eat. They usually will decrease the amount of pellets during this time.
To help prevent, it is recommended that you include a broad spectrum antibiotic in the water of the mother and of the babies as they grow older. We use Terramycin. Steralize the cage floor before the babies leave the nest box, have the mother and babies on a normal low protein and high fiber diet. Provide hay to the babies to nibble on. This will help the digestive system keep moving. Avoid overcrowding and stresses to the babies system such as extreme changes in temerature.
Make sure you completely disinfect the rabbits cage and toys. If it is caused by a bacterial infection you need to make sure it is not still present. We use Vanodine for all our disinfection (cheap, easy and a 4oz bottle makes at least 8 gallons of disinfectant. Vanodine kills bacteria, virsus and fungus but is still safe around the animal)"
M.E. can also affect adult rabbits, often those with weakened immune systems. It often follows antibiotics if not given with probiotics. It is usually fatal, which is why we recommend giving Probiotics every time antibiotics are given. Preferably several hours afterword, so as not to kill the Probiotics before they can help. Keep the regimen going for at least a week after the antibiotics are gone to rebuild the proper mix of intestinal flora.
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Recommended Treatment From: http://www.mismatch.co.uk/rabbithealth.htm:
"What is it? A mucus-like inflammation of the intestinal tract caused by either viral or bacterial infection, also called bloat, which affects young rabbits usually 3-10 weeks old. It is not contagious.
Symptoms - Rabbit hunched rigid in the cage sometimes with the head titled back. Loss of balance. Bloated stomach - you can sometimes hear 'sloshing' and gurling in the stomach when you pick the rabbit up. Constipation and/or small amounts of diarrhea. The diarrhea will have gel globs in droppings and mucus covered soft droppings. Gel on their bottom. No blood or green mucus in the droppings like with Coccidia. Grinding their teeth (a sign of extreme pain).
How do they get it? - here is a quote from http://www.all-creatures.com/456013.html "This condition involves disruption of the complex system responsible for fermentation of non-digestible fiber in the diet. Factors involved in enteritis complex include changes in diet, effects of antibiotics, stress, and genetic predisposition to gut dysfunction. Diets high in sugars or protein or low in fiber may cause changes in the fermentation process in the cecum, leading to changes in pH and motility, which in turn lead to enteritis. Additionally, some antibiotics that affect the normal bacteria of the hindgut (penicillin, cephalosporin, erythromycin, clindamycin, and lincomycin) allow overgrowth of bacteria found in the intestinal tract, which can cause enteritis." It can be from overcrowding or overstressing which causes constipation and a distruption in the fermentation process of fiber in the gut. Stress can also be caused by change in temperature, by bullying by other rabbits, showing, traveling, change in food.
Treatment -
For this disease there is as yet no recognized control. It is painful and slow and they do not usually recover. You should consider putting the baby 'down' if you have this. If you want to try and keep them alive even though they are in pain...replace their water with pedialyte for hydration and give them plenty of carrots, green leaf lettuce/spinach and bananas/apples/papaya, pinneaple juice, yogurt. Basically anything they will eat. They usually will decrease the amount of pellets during this time.
To help prevent, it is recommended that you include a broad spectrum antibiotic in the water of the mother and of the babies as they grow older. We use Terramycin. Steralize the cage floor before the babies leave the nest box, have the mother and babies on a normal low protein and high fiber diet. Provide hay to the babies to nibble on. This will help the digestive system keep moving. Avoid overcrowding and stresses to the babies system such as extreme changes in temerature.
Make sure you completely disinfect the rabbits cage and toys. If it is caused by a bacterial infection you need to make sure it is not still present. We use Vanodine for all our disinfection (cheap, easy and a 4oz bottle makes at least 8 gallons of disinfectant. Vanodine kills bacteria, virsus and fungus but is still safe around the animal)"
Flystrike
Buzzy Bunnies Says:
There's little worse than picking up a rabbit and discovering a hole in their skin, containing maggots. It can be treated, but it must be treated quickly by a veterinarian, of your rabbit will soon die a very unpleasant death of shock. It's caused by a rabbit that wets or soils itself. Flies lay their eggs in the moistened skin, which is why it's vital to keep your rabbit clean and dry at all times to prevent this from occurring. Fly Strike does not affect clean, dry rabbits.
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Recommended Treatment From: http://www.mismatch.co.uk/rabbithealth.htm:
"This is a particular problem for longhaired rabbits in the summer. Flies lay their eggs in the soiled fur under the tail. The maggots hatch out 12-24 hours later and burrow into the flesh. Flystrike can lead to death, so check every day to make sure your rabbit, its hutch and its bedding, is clean and fresh. I have experienced this for myself and lost 2 rabbits to this problem. It literally happens overnight. The most common time of the year will be summer when it is warm and ideal temperatures for flies to strike.
It is quite a distressing site to see as the rabbit will be covered in maggots around its back end and these quite literally crawl up inside the rabbit and kill it.
You need to seek immediate medical attention (even if this means calling a vet out at the weekend or at night) as the rabbit will surely die if the maggots are not removed immediately. You can provide temporary relief by bathing the rabbit in cool water and trying to kill as many of the maggots as you can.
The risk of Flystrike can be minimised by stepping up cleaning regimes in summer and checking rabbits at least twice a day. Rearguard (avavilable for vets) prevents maggots developing so can save a bunnies life!"
Slobbers, Hutch burn and Scabby face
Buzzy Bunnies Says:
I don't know why the quoted site recommend putting down a pet rabbit with slobbers, but I don't think it's really necessary, personally. Even if it can't be treated, I don't think it's dangerous to your rabbit. Check with your vet, though, to be sure about that.
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Recommended Treatment From: http://www.mismatch.co.uk/rabbithealth.htm:
"These three problems are serious and you should take your pet to the vet if you suspect that it has any of them. Slobbers is caused by abscesses of the mouth and the rabbit drools continuously Little can be done for slobbers, and the affected animal will need to be put down. Hutch burn, commonly known as vent disease, is caused by dirt contacting the sex organ of the rabbit. The infected organ then becomes scabby and later purulent. Not surprisingly, infected rabbits exhibit a great reluctance to mate (which is fortunate for its partner, who could become contaminated). if the rabbit licks its infected private parts, a scabby face and mouth may result. A vet should be contacted as soon as possible."
I don't know why the quoted site recommend putting down a pet rabbit with slobbers, but I don't think it's really necessary, personally. Even if it can't be treated, I don't think it's dangerous to your rabbit. Check with your vet, though, to be sure about that.
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Recommended Treatment From: http://www.mismatch.co.uk/rabbithealth.htm:
"These three problems are serious and you should take your pet to the vet if you suspect that it has any of them. Slobbers is caused by abscesses of the mouth and the rabbit drools continuously Little can be done for slobbers, and the affected animal will need to be put down. Hutch burn, commonly known as vent disease, is caused by dirt contacting the sex organ of the rabbit. The infected organ then becomes scabby and later purulent. Not surprisingly, infected rabbits exhibit a great reluctance to mate (which is fortunate for its partner, who could become contaminated). if the rabbit licks its infected private parts, a scabby face and mouth may result. A vet should be contacted as soon as possible."
Sore hocks
Buzzy Bunnies Says:
Sore hocks can be caused by waiting too long to cut toenails, which causes the rabbit to attempt to walk on its hocks in it's hutch or cage. It's basically walking while sitting. It can also be caused by dirty or insufficient litter in a flat-bottomed cage or not enough fur on the hocks, which is common in some breeds.
Treatment: Trim the nails as short as you safely can, clean the area - both on the foot and the rabbit's cage and place a resting mat, grass mat, or other flat surface in a corner the rabbit doesn't use as a litter box, unless you are using a solid-bottomed cage.
If your rabbit's cage has a solid bottom, clean the cage thoroughly. Trim your rabbit's claws as short as you safely can. Replace the bedding and make sure it is at least 2" deep. Not all sore hocks are infected, but you need to treat them with a healing salve, balm or ointment to keep them from getting that way.
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Recommended Treatment From: http://www.mismatch.co.uk/rabbithealth.htm:
"Sore hocks is a condition normally caused by insufficient bedding in the hutch. Tender, cracked and possibly scabbing skin covers the infected hind limb where the fur has been rubbed away. Since the smaller rabbits have larger foot padding on the hind feet, the larger breeds are more typically affected. Cleaning and applying an antiseptic ointment help the rabbit to recovery. Veterinary advice is also recommended."
Pneumonia
Buzzy Bunnies Says:
Fortunately, we haven't had the pleasure of dealing with pneumonia in rabbits, yet. I hope we never do.
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Recommended Treatment From: http://www.mismatch.co.uk/rabbithealth.htm:
"A rabbit well cared for and properly fed rarely encounters this serious illness. Keep the rabbit's environment consistent, including the ambient temperature; sudden changes in temperature diminish a rabbit's natural resistance. A listless, unhappy, unhungry bunny requires your attention, as these are signs of pneumonia, in addition to mucus around the mouth and nasal passages. The assistance of a vet is essential, as most rabbits die within a few days of contracting the illness."
Fortunately, we haven't had the pleasure of dealing with pneumonia in rabbits, yet. I hope we never do.
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Recommended Treatment From: http://www.mismatch.co.uk/rabbithealth.htm:
"A rabbit well cared for and properly fed rarely encounters this serious illness. Keep the rabbit's environment consistent, including the ambient temperature; sudden changes in temperature diminish a rabbit's natural resistance. A listless, unhappy, unhungry bunny requires your attention, as these are signs of pneumonia, in addition to mucus around the mouth and nasal passages. The assistance of a vet is essential, as most rabbits die within a few days of contracting the illness."
Eye infections
Buzzy Bunnies Says:
Eye infections, including stys, can also be treated with meadowsweet tea. Brew the herb as you would a beverage for yourself and wait for it to cool. Using a clean towel or a paper towel, clean the eye lids thoroughly. If the infection is inside the eye, use an eye dropper, being careful to avoid the nose. Treat twice daily until and two days after the infection is gone to be sure it doesn't return. We have used this method several times on rabbits and cats alike. It works on all but the most severe infections, which require veterinary care.
Probiotics can also be given if you believe the infection was caused by an intestinal imbalance.
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Recommended Treatment From: http://www.mismatch.co.uk/rabbithealth.htm:
"Domestic rabbits are rather susceptible to eye problems, primarily infections caused by dust and/or other flying matter that accumulates in the tear ducts. As a result of the blockage caused by the dirt, fluid fills the eye pocket and subsequently flows down the rabbit's cheeks. What owner can bear to watch his pet weeping? Prevention of dust accumulation should be stressed, as a cure is never as easy as prevention. Often only one eye is affected, although some unfortunate rabbits suffer an infection in both eyes. Eye baths, prescribed by a vet, are frequently required to treat the infection. The skin and fur around the eyes, likewise, may be affected. Draughts may also be responsible for eye infections."
Eye infections, including stys, can also be treated with meadowsweet tea. Brew the herb as you would a beverage for yourself and wait for it to cool. Using a clean towel or a paper towel, clean the eye lids thoroughly. If the infection is inside the eye, use an eye dropper, being careful to avoid the nose. Treat twice daily until and two days after the infection is gone to be sure it doesn't return. We have used this method several times on rabbits and cats alike. It works on all but the most severe infections, which require veterinary care.
Probiotics can also be given if you believe the infection was caused by an intestinal imbalance.
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Recommended Treatment From: http://www.mismatch.co.uk/rabbithealth.htm:
"Domestic rabbits are rather susceptible to eye problems, primarily infections caused by dust and/or other flying matter that accumulates in the tear ducts. As a result of the blockage caused by the dirt, fluid fills the eye pocket and subsequently flows down the rabbit's cheeks. What owner can bear to watch his pet weeping? Prevention of dust accumulation should be stressed, as a cure is never as easy as prevention. Often only one eye is affected, although some unfortunate rabbits suffer an infection in both eyes. Eye baths, prescribed by a vet, are frequently required to treat the infection. The skin and fur around the eyes, likewise, may be affected. Draughts may also be responsible for eye infections."
Mites
Buzzy Bunnies Says:
The most common mites to affect rabbits are the fur and ear mites. Treatment of fur mites includes a drug called Ivermectin, which is not its original use, but it can be effective in some cases. Caution should be used as side effects and death have been reported. If you prefer to go the natural route, as we do at every opportunity, as long as the health of our rabbits isn't compromised, a small amount (1 tbsp/gallon) raw apple cider vinegar per gallon water is supposed to repel the mites and tiny amount of garlic can also be fed. Be sure to keep this portion of the treatment up daily for several weeks to really repel the mites, with the exception of the garlic. Wormwood, Neem, Niaoli, and Lemongrass can all be applied externally as natural pesticides. Mites are believed by some to attack only rabbits with weakened immune systems and many believe rabbits can have a Vitamin C deficiency, which some studies have reported can increase the likelihood of your rabbit getting these mites. A tiny piece of fruit each day or a multivitamin should prevent this deficiency, but watch for the levels of each nutrient and avoid excess sugar. Many breeders believe that, since rabbits produce their own Vitamin C, they do not need an additional amount, but as with any manufacturing process, we believe that can be easily derailed or made deficient.
You could also try zapping them with an ionic flea comb. :P
Ear mites can also be treated with mineral or vegetable oil and any of the above treatments. When using the oil, soak the inner ear well and leave it. Some lemongrass oil added may help to more permanently eliminate the mites, but you still may have to repeat this treatment if they have laid eggs. Allow to sit overnight. The oil will drown the hatched mites. Ivermectin (the dose will depend on the size of the rabbit, but that dose is tiny regardless of breed! Remember, this is a poison, so use with extreme caution!) is also commonly used on ear and other forms of mites.
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Recommended Treatment From: http://www.mismatch.co.uk/rabbithealth.htm:
"Rabbits are frequently troubled by several different mites. The ear mite can cause a condition generally known as ear mange, or car canker. Any rabbit showing symptoms of irritation and distress that make it scratch the ears and shake the head, or those with a powdery brown matter in the ears need prompt veterinary treatment.
Forage and harvest mites also attack rabbits. They burrow into the skin and set up an area of intense irritation that the rabbit will scratch until it is raw. This condition, usually known as mange, must also receive veterinary treatment."
Buzzy Bunnies Also Says:
As with any illness, be sure the environment has also been cleaned and decontaminated with either a natural or chemical pesticide. Dust solid surfaces such as wood with food-grade Diatomacious Earth (DE) and leave for several days if possible before cleaning it up and reintroducing your rabbit. Before treating, it is best to check under a microscope to be sure you really are dealing with mites, as there are other illnesses that mimic its symptoms and the treatment would not be the same.
The most common mites to affect rabbits are the fur and ear mites. Treatment of fur mites includes a drug called Ivermectin, which is not its original use, but it can be effective in some cases. Caution should be used as side effects and death have been reported. If you prefer to go the natural route, as we do at every opportunity, as long as the health of our rabbits isn't compromised, a small amount (1 tbsp/gallon) raw apple cider vinegar per gallon water is supposed to repel the mites and tiny amount of garlic can also be fed. Be sure to keep this portion of the treatment up daily for several weeks to really repel the mites, with the exception of the garlic. Wormwood, Neem, Niaoli, and Lemongrass can all be applied externally as natural pesticides. Mites are believed by some to attack only rabbits with weakened immune systems and many believe rabbits can have a Vitamin C deficiency, which some studies have reported can increase the likelihood of your rabbit getting these mites. A tiny piece of fruit each day or a multivitamin should prevent this deficiency, but watch for the levels of each nutrient and avoid excess sugar. Many breeders believe that, since rabbits produce their own Vitamin C, they do not need an additional amount, but as with any manufacturing process, we believe that can be easily derailed or made deficient.
You could also try zapping them with an ionic flea comb. :P
Ear mites can also be treated with mineral or vegetable oil and any of the above treatments. When using the oil, soak the inner ear well and leave it. Some lemongrass oil added may help to more permanently eliminate the mites, but you still may have to repeat this treatment if they have laid eggs. Allow to sit overnight. The oil will drown the hatched mites. Ivermectin (the dose will depend on the size of the rabbit, but that dose is tiny regardless of breed! Remember, this is a poison, so use with extreme caution!) is also commonly used on ear and other forms of mites.
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Recommended Treatment From: http://www.mismatch.co.uk/rabbithealth.htm:
"Rabbits are frequently troubled by several different mites. The ear mite can cause a condition generally known as ear mange, or car canker. Any rabbit showing symptoms of irritation and distress that make it scratch the ears and shake the head, or those with a powdery brown matter in the ears need prompt veterinary treatment.
Forage and harvest mites also attack rabbits. They burrow into the skin and set up an area of intense irritation that the rabbit will scratch until it is raw. This condition, usually known as mange, must also receive veterinary treatment."
Buzzy Bunnies Also Says:
As with any illness, be sure the environment has also been cleaned and decontaminated with either a natural or chemical pesticide. Dust solid surfaces such as wood with food-grade Diatomacious Earth (DE) and leave for several days if possible before cleaning it up and reintroducing your rabbit. Before treating, it is best to check under a microscope to be sure you really are dealing with mites, as there are other illnesses that mimic its symptoms and the treatment would not be the same.
Dehydration
Buzzy Bunnies Says:
For dehydration, we use Pedialyte or another electrolyte solution in an oral syringe injected directly into the mouth. It is our experience that if a rabbit is dehydrated, it is usually a symptom of something else like cocci. If you suspect dehydration and can't find a cause, we recommend a visit to your veterinarian.
Dehydration can be fatal in rabbits. Please don't take it lightly!
In the case of severe dehydration, a saline solution can be injected under the skin.
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Recommended Treatment From: http://www.mismatch.co.uk/rabbithealth.htm:
"Symptoms - If your rabbit has stopped drinking and peeing. If their skin 'stays' in one place when you pinch it together rather than it immediately releasing back into place. If your rabbit has diarrhea.
How do they get it? - If your rabbit has been sick they are likely dehydrated because they don't feel like drinking or they are in pain or their body simply can't keep in the fluids.
Treatment -
Soak carrot tops in water to entice them to eat and get the fluid. Offer them apples and bananas, apple juice and pinneapple juice.
If they won't drink on their own you will need to feed them with an oral syringe. (note NEVER oral syring feed a rabbit on their back!! or they can easily breathe in the liquid). These are available at your vet or any pharmacy (baby syringe feeder). Feed them unflavored children's Pedialyte. This contains electrolytes and other things needed for dehydration which are not contained in regular water. If you can get it fast enough you can use Am-Tech rather than pedialyte (www.jefferslivestock.com), an amino acid formula used to combat the dehydration and get them the nutrients they need during severe illnesses. The important thing is that you need to quickly get your rabbit hydrated by whichever method they will tolerate.
If you don't have pedialyte you can make your own ORT (oral rehydration therapy) 1 cup water, 2 teaspoons sugar, 1/4 teaspoon baking soda (since their system can be acidic when they are sick, this will help reduce that), 3/16 teaspoon salt.
If they are too weak to drink, or extremely hydrated and need immediate fluids, you'll need to get lactated ringer solution from your vet. This is for sub-cutaneus application (under the skin, not in the muscle or veins). It will come with a needle, syringe tubing, etc. Your vet can show you how to administer. I usually do about a golfball in size between the shoulderblades for an adult (small holland sized) rabbit. There's not really a risk of overdosing, but it can be painful for the rabbit if you 'overfill' an area. Once that goes down in size I administer again in a couple hours if they are still dehydrated. Do not reuse your needles, they dull after one use and can be very painful for the rabbit. They are also no longer steralized after use."
For dehydration, we use Pedialyte or another electrolyte solution in an oral syringe injected directly into the mouth. It is our experience that if a rabbit is dehydrated, it is usually a symptom of something else like cocci. If you suspect dehydration and can't find a cause, we recommend a visit to your veterinarian.
Dehydration can be fatal in rabbits. Please don't take it lightly!
In the case of severe dehydration, a saline solution can be injected under the skin.
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Recommended Treatment From: http://www.mismatch.co.uk/rabbithealth.htm:
"Symptoms - If your rabbit has stopped drinking and peeing. If their skin 'stays' in one place when you pinch it together rather than it immediately releasing back into place. If your rabbit has diarrhea.
How do they get it? - If your rabbit has been sick they are likely dehydrated because they don't feel like drinking or they are in pain or their body simply can't keep in the fluids.
Treatment -
Soak carrot tops in water to entice them to eat and get the fluid. Offer them apples and bananas, apple juice and pinneapple juice.
If they won't drink on their own you will need to feed them with an oral syringe. (note NEVER oral syring feed a rabbit on their back!! or they can easily breathe in the liquid). These are available at your vet or any pharmacy (baby syringe feeder). Feed them unflavored children's Pedialyte. This contains electrolytes and other things needed for dehydration which are not contained in regular water. If you can get it fast enough you can use Am-Tech rather than pedialyte (www.jefferslivestock.com), an amino acid formula used to combat the dehydration and get them the nutrients they need during severe illnesses. The important thing is that you need to quickly get your rabbit hydrated by whichever method they will tolerate.
If you don't have pedialyte you can make your own ORT (oral rehydration therapy) 1 cup water, 2 teaspoons sugar, 1/4 teaspoon baking soda (since their system can be acidic when they are sick, this will help reduce that), 3/16 teaspoon salt.
If they are too weak to drink, or extremely hydrated and need immediate fluids, you'll need to get lactated ringer solution from your vet. This is for sub-cutaneus application (under the skin, not in the muscle or veins). It will come with a needle, syringe tubing, etc. Your vet can show you how to administer. I usually do about a golfball in size between the shoulderblades for an adult (small holland sized) rabbit. There's not really a risk of overdosing, but it can be painful for the rabbit if you 'overfill' an area. Once that goes down in size I administer again in a couple hours if they are still dehydrated. Do not reuse your needles, they dull after one use and can be very painful for the rabbit. They are also no longer steralized after use."
Diarrhea
Buzzy Bunnies Says:
We always treat diarrhea as cocci, even if we aren't sure it is. Even if it's not severe, we treat with Probiotics, feed oats and hay instead of pellets and disinfect everything, cage bowls, the works! Please take all diarrhea seriously, as it can lead to dehydration even if it's not symptom of another illness.
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Recommended Treatment From: http://www.mismatch.co.uk/rabbithealth.htm:
"What is it? - Runny stool - usually smells much worse than usual rabbit poop. Hair matted on the rabbits butt, poop caked in fur.
Symptoms - Can be accompanied by a listless rabbit, rabbit not eating or drinking, very foul smelling stool, blood or mucus in stool.
How do they get it? - There are many many different potential causes. Usually it is caused by a change in diet. This is less extreme and is usually not accompanied by a lot of diarrhea. The stool may just be a little looser than normal which will clear up in a few days. If the rabbit is very young or old and the diarrhea is severe, a common cause is 'coccidia' and mucoid enteritis. It can also be caused if a rabbit is on antibiotics. Antibiotics can kill the bad and the good bacteria in a rabbits stomach. This causes an imbalance in the digestive system causing diarrhea.
Treatment -
Isolate the rabbit in case it is caused by sickness
Disinfect anything the rabbit has touched including the cage
If you do not see any other signs of illness it may just be an imbalance in stomach bacteria, you can wipe some yogurt on their front paws. The rabbit will lick it off and hopefully 'rebalance'. Or you can use benebac (or probac) powder in their food to rebalance.
If the rabbit has blood or mucus in the stool see 'coccidia' and 'mucoid'
If the rabbit seems listless or is not drinking they are very likely dehydrated. This is a common side effect of diarrhea and you must help that immediately.
If the rabbit seems fine and the diarrhea is not very severe then just keep an eye on them and make sure they are drinking and eating. Typically this is caused by a change in diet, or by fruit. You can give them probac rabbitmedicinechest.com or benebac jefferslivestock.com in their water which will re-balance their intestinal 'good' bacteria. If your rabbit is on antibiotics you should definitely be giving them one of those in their water.
Thoroughly disinfect the animals cage. If bacteria is the cause of their diarrhea you need to make sure that is no longer present in their environment. (Vanodine is an easy, cheap and very effective disinfectant)"
We always treat diarrhea as cocci, even if we aren't sure it is. Even if it's not severe, we treat with Probiotics, feed oats and hay instead of pellets and disinfect everything, cage bowls, the works! Please take all diarrhea seriously, as it can lead to dehydration even if it's not symptom of another illness.
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**************************************************************************** ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' '
Recommended Treatment From: http://www.mismatch.co.uk/rabbithealth.htm:
"What is it? - Runny stool - usually smells much worse than usual rabbit poop. Hair matted on the rabbits butt, poop caked in fur.
Symptoms - Can be accompanied by a listless rabbit, rabbit not eating or drinking, very foul smelling stool, blood or mucus in stool.
How do they get it? - There are many many different potential causes. Usually it is caused by a change in diet. This is less extreme and is usually not accompanied by a lot of diarrhea. The stool may just be a little looser than normal which will clear up in a few days. If the rabbit is very young or old and the diarrhea is severe, a common cause is 'coccidia' and mucoid enteritis. It can also be caused if a rabbit is on antibiotics. Antibiotics can kill the bad and the good bacteria in a rabbits stomach. This causes an imbalance in the digestive system causing diarrhea.
Treatment -
Isolate the rabbit in case it is caused by sickness
Disinfect anything the rabbit has touched including the cage
If you do not see any other signs of illness it may just be an imbalance in stomach bacteria, you can wipe some yogurt on their front paws. The rabbit will lick it off and hopefully 'rebalance'. Or you can use benebac (or probac) powder in their food to rebalance.
If the rabbit has blood or mucus in the stool see 'coccidia' and 'mucoid'
If the rabbit seems listless or is not drinking they are very likely dehydrated. This is a common side effect of diarrhea and you must help that immediately.
If the rabbit seems fine and the diarrhea is not very severe then just keep an eye on them and make sure they are drinking and eating. Typically this is caused by a change in diet, or by fruit. You can give them probac rabbitmedicinechest.com or benebac jefferslivestock.com in their water which will re-balance their intestinal 'good' bacteria. If your rabbit is on antibiotics you should definitely be giving them one of those in their water.
Thoroughly disinfect the animals cage. If bacteria is the cause of their diarrhea you need to make sure that is no longer present in their environment. (Vanodine is an easy, cheap and very effective disinfectant)"
These quotes are from http://www.mismatch.co.uk/rabbithealth.htm. They are listed here to give you and idea of what you are dealing with and how to deal with it. Everybody has a different way of caring for their rabbit. We do not necessarily agree with or endorce any of the advice given in bold, which is why we had to leave comments (Look for "Buzzy Bunnies Says:") with a few treatment suggestions right above them. If you're not absolutely sure of what you're dealing with or how to treat it, please see a veterinary professional. This page is for educational purposes only and no advice is to be taken in place of veterinary care. We are not responsible for anything that might happen from following or not folowing this advice. Buzzy Bunnies Rabbitry does not endorse the correct or incorrect use of this information. Always seek medical assistance if you don't know what you're doing.
This list is not, by any means, intended an all-inclusive list of rabbit illnesses, but a quick, educational guide to rabbit care. The links are there to help you, but they are only suggestions. As is with all the other information on this site, use at your own risk.
This list is not, by any means, intended an all-inclusive list of rabbit illnesses, but a quick, educational guide to rabbit care. The links are there to help you, but they are only suggestions. As is with all the other information on this site, use at your own risk.